When the domes of Edirne's abandoned Great Synagogue caved in, Rifat Mitrani, the town's last Jew, knew it spelled the end of nearly two millennia of Jewish heritage in this Turkish town. As a boy, Mitrani studied Hebrew in the synagogue's gardens and, in the 1970s, dispatched its Torah to Istanbul after the community shrank to just three families. In 1975, he unlocked its doors and swept away the cobwebs to marry his wife Sara. "Only I am left. It happens slowly, becoming the last one," said Mitrani, 65,whose family fled here more than 500 years ago. Now a five-year, $2.5 million government project has restored the synagogue's lead-clad domes and resplendent interior ahead of its Thursday re-opening, the first temple to open in Turkey in two generations, but one without worshippers. It is part of a relaxation of curbs on religious minorities ushered in during President Tayyip Erdogan's 12 years in power. Yet it coincides with a spike in anti-Sem...